Thursday 20 March 2014

The Identity of Fashion Magazines

(TBC) The publishing industry is truly over-saturated with fashion publications these days. Since the first issue of Vogue was printed in 1892 as a weekly publication, Condé Nast has transformed Vogue from a popular American fashion magazine, to a publishing powerhouse. There are currently twenty international editions of Vogue catering to taste of woman from Korea to Brazil to Britain (this figure doesn't include defunct editions such as Greek and Cuban Vogue).
You would imagine that many editions would get lost in this whirlwind of international Vogue - but they don't. To me, what sets Vogue apart from their competitors such as Elle and Harper's Bazaar is that each edition follows a very clear, individualised direction. Here I am going to dissect the aesthetics of each publication and address what I feel makes Vogue unique.

Vogue US
American Vogue is not only the original Vogue, but also arguably the most recognisable edition. You only have to utter the name Anna Wintour and near enough everybody in the room will be able to identify her as editor-in-cheif of Vogue. American Vogue heavily features celebrity cover stars rather than models. Under Wintour's direction the magazine shifted from being entirely fashion based towards the inclusion of celebrity culture. However this is not done in a similar manner to tabloid gossip magazines which compose their issues depending on who is currently surrounded by scandal. American Vogue chooses cover stars who are popular, often aspirational woman (such as Michelle Obama) and often fashion muses (such as Rihanna from March 2014 who influences Balmain). As a model, gracing the cover of American Vogue is considered a very big deal. Kate Upton was recently featured but she is definitely immersed in celebrity culture despite being a model and has a marketability most models don't. Karlie Kloss, for example, has featured in 73 editorials and has yet to be selected for a cover. This to me, cements American Vogue's identity of being a fashion magazine which cleverly dips its feet into celebrity culture.


American Vogue covers are easily identifiable by their frequent use of portrait shots, drop shadow text, Century Gothic style bolded font and general "glossy" look.


Vogue Italia
Many people regard Vogue Italia as the most pure fashion edition of Vogue. Vogue Italia features more controversial editorials than its American or British counterparts and has developed this image of being the risqué sister in the Condé Nast family. Covers and editorials are often art driven as Steven Meisel's work shows. I feel that Vogue Italia is representative of Italian culture (the last celebrity that I remember being on the cover of the magazine was Isabella Rossellini)


Vogue Italia covers are recognisable by their use of darker and warmer toned colours and minimal text. Covers tend to feature one headline on the bottom half of the image which sums up the feel of both the cover and the issue. For example, Saskia de Brauw's April 2014 cover where she posed with a bull while wearing face paint had the words "WONDERFULLY WILD" embellished on the image.

Vogue Nippon (Japan)
Vogue Nippon covers are always models posing against white backgrounds and surrounded by text overlays. I don't think I've ever seen an issue which didn't follow this formula. No other issue of Vogue shoots covers in this style, and I like that Vogue Nippon is so different.


Vogue Paris
Even the name of French Vogue creates an air of luxury. Vogue Paris, named after the fashion capital of the world.


British Vogue
I consider British Vogue like a hyrid between American Vogue and Vogue Paris.


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